The journey from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass is only 154 km (95
miles)
but to appreciate what lies along this road much more time is needed
than
that distance would suggest.
The first road from Christchurch to the West Coast through Arthur's
Pass
was finished in 1865. It was built to satisfy the demand for an
improved
route to the goldfields on the West Coast. The firm of Cobb and Co.
established a coach service in 1866.
Finding Highway 73 - travelling to Springfield
The route to the Pass today is Highway 73 - a sealed road all the way.
The simplest way to get on to it is to find Riccarton Road in
Christchurch
and towards the end of the Upper Riccarton shopping centre at Church
Corner
turn half right into Yaldhurst Road, the main road to the West Coast.
For the first sixty kilometres (38 miles) of the journey you travel on
a
highway climbing only gradually until you reach Springfield. On a
clear day
you have a view of the mountains ahead, particularly impressive in the
mornings when the sun is on the eastern slopes.
Just past Yaldhurst you have a choice of route, and can turn half
right
into the Old Coast Road which was used by the Cobb and Co coaches or
follow
highway 73. The Old Coast Road takes you through farm land and affords
an
occasional glimpse of the Waimakariri River to the right. It links
with
highway 73 at Sheffield. Highway 73 takes you through Kirwee, and the
pleasant country town of Darfield.
Kirwee
At Kirwee you will notice an obelisk which honours the memory of
Colonel
Brett, an early settler in the area. He had served in the British
army in
India and called his farm Kirwee after an Indian village. He realised
that
the success of farming on the Canterbury Plains was threatened by the
droughts common in summer and organised a network of water races using
water from the Kowai River for farms in Courtenay, Malvern, Hororata
and
Kirwee.
Memorial to Rewi Alley
Take time in Springfield to visit the memorial to Rewi Alley. He was
born
in Springfield in 1897 but after fighting in the trenches in France in
World War I and farming for six years in Taranaki he went far from
his
rural Canterbury birthplace to work in China. He is probably better
known
in China than in New Zealand for his selfless work to help the Chinese
people. He worked as a fireman, and a factory inspector, and during
the
war between China and Japan to help the war effort he travelled widely
to
set up cooperative work groups in the Gung Ho cooperative movement.
He
founded a school in a town on the edge of the Gobi Desert to train
young
Chinese in technical and academic skills and worked as its principal
for
six years. He moved to Beijing in 1852 and lived there until his
death in
1997. Once the new reform policies were introduced in the late
eighties he
worked again successfully for the cooperative movement, established a
second school and a museum.
For these and other services to the country he was highly honoured by
the
Chinese leaders. After the end of the Cold War his work became
better
known in New Zealand and in 1985 the New Zealand Government awarded
him the
Queen's Service Order.
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The memorial to Rewi Alley at Springfield - the sculpture with the
information centre behind it
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The monument is a poured concrete bas-relief statue showing him with
two
Chinese children and a lamb. It was a gift to the community of a
Chinese
couple, Deng Bang Zheng who designed it and Lu Bo, his wife, who
sculpted
it. They spent several months in Springfield working on this project.
It
is set in a small park and behind it is a shelter with panels
depicting
significant stages in Rewi Alley's life. As you enter a recorded
account
of his life plays automatically telling the story of his work in
English
and in Chinese.
Entering the mountains from Springfield
From Springfield the road begins to climb steadily at first and then
steeply up to Porters Pass 945.5 metres (3100 feet) above sea level,
18 km
(11 miles) from Springfield). This is the highest point on the road.
If
you are travelling in the depth of winter it is wise to find out
before
leaving on your trip whether Porters Pass and Arthur's Pass are open
as
they are occasionally closed by snow.
Lake Lyndon
The road from the top of the pass drops down to Lake Lyndon, ? metres
(2,770 feet) above sea level. The lake is occasionally frozen over in
winter sufficiently for it to be used for skating. Years ago blocks of
ice
used to be cut from the lake and transported to Christchurch to be
used for
refrigeration. This unpopulated area is transformed after a snowfall
into
a crowded mecca for families seeking fun in the snow, tobogganing on
the
slopes beside the road, steep enough to provide fun, but gentle enough
to
be suitable for children.
Castle Hill
After a sharp descent to the Porter River Bridge you pass the road to
Porter Heights skifield and approach Castle Hill, easily recognisable
by
the huge rock formations on the hillside. A signpost on the left
shows the
start of the track. There is a small car park.
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Huge and weirdly shaped rocks make the spectator feel insignificant
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You will want to allow time to explore the rocks as wandering among
these
huge limestone formations is an awe-inspiring experience. Keep walking
past
the smaller rocks near the road until you reach the more majestic
formations further on. There are all sorts of shapes as though a
giant
sculptor has been at work creating arches and weird prehistoric
animals so
large that the spectator feels insignificant.
Cave Stream Reserve
On the right hand side of the road further on is the Cave Stream
Reserve
which is karst topography - country with sinkholes and caves. The
Cave
Stream flows underground for some 360 metres. Do not attempt to go
through
this tunnel without a guide. It can be dangerous after rain and
people
have lost their lives attempting to go through when the streams are
rising.
Even if you venture only a short distance in warm dry weather be
prepared
for it to be very cold and take a reliable torch.
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Cave Stream Reserve
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Castle Hill Resort
In the coaching days, Castle Hill was promoted as a health and holiday
resort, and the hostel, built in 1871 of local white stone, offered
"first
class accommodation". A short distance further on the remains of the
old
hostel - some foundations and a chimney - can be found on the right.
The
area is still popular for winter sports, rock climbing, and summer
holidays
and a number of new houses have been built in the Castle Hill
Village.
Descend into the gorge to cross the Broken River Bridge and imagine
what a
taxing trip this must have been for the horses pulling the Cobb & Co.
coaches.
Craigieburn Forest Park
Craigieburn Forest Park is the next point of interest. There are two
points of entry on the left of the road. It offers good walking
tracks,
either a short walk to break your journey, or a full day's tramp.
The
second entrance beside the Craigieburn Stream offers a handy picnic
place
close to the road. Remember to take your insect repellent!
Four skifields operate in this area in winter - Mount Cheeseman,
Broken
River, Craigieburn and Mt Olympus.
The lakes
The road descends sharply at the Craigieburn Cut and then runs beside
the
Craigieburn Stream and passes Lake Pearson and Lake Grasmere - both
well-known trout fishing spots. The fishing season runs from the
first
full weekend in November to the end of April. When you buy your
fishing
licence you will be given all information about restrictions on
fishing
there.
Lake Pearson is the larger lake, shaped like a hour glass. On still
days
it mirrors the surrounding mountains, but on other days the wind
sweeps
across it whipping up sizable white capped waves. There are places to
picnic and launch a small boat.
The Bealey and the moa
The next landmark is the little village of Cass, originally a railway
settlement at the terminus of the railway to the west. Some 16 km (9
miles) further on is the Bealey settlement. Holiday houses have long
clung
to the Bealey Spur, but the casual traveller can find good
accommodation
and restaurant and bar service at the Bealey Hotel a little further
along
on the right.
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The moa at the Bealey
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As you drive into the hotel car park note the moa, the large bird
depicted
on your right, to remind us of the story of the group including Paddy
Freaney, the owner of the hotel, who claimed a few years ago to have
found
a surviving moa and produced a photograph to substantiate their
claim.
The last lap to the Pass
Leaving the Bealey you will shortly enter Arthur's Pass National Park.
Soon you cross the Waimakariri River bridge where on a clear day there
is a
magnificent view of mountains at the head of the valley. There is a
sheltered picnic and camping place at the near end of the bridge on
your
left. The weather is often clear here when rain is falling at Arthur's
Pass
Village.
Crossing the wide bed of the Waimakariri River was a major hurdle for
travellers before the bridge was built, and travellers sometimes
stayed
until the river level fell at Klondyke Corner at the north end of the
bridge or at the Bealey Glacier Hotel south of the river. Several
hotels
were built at the site but destroyed by fire. Towards the end of the
nineteenth century the proprietor, J. O'Malley, took parties of
tourists to
the head of the Waimakariri Valley to view the glaciers. This was the
first tourist venture in the area.
The road then runs through beautiful bush beside the Bealey River
until you
come into the alpine village of Arthur's Pass - 152 km (95 miles)
from
Christchurch.
