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The Road from Christchurch to Picton
Part 1
Christchurch to Kaikoura
Dorothy - 22/09/03
I strongly recommend that you allow extra time when driving from
Christchurch to Picton so that you can appreciate the farmlands, vineyards
and hills of North Canterbury, the charm of rural centres like Amberley,
Waipara and Cheviot, the bushclad slopes and peaks of the Hundalees, and
the unsurpassed beauty of the
Kaikoura Coast.
I have driven over this road countless times, but I am captured afresh each
time by the beautiful scenery and interesting features along the way. So
many tourists drive fast over the road to Picton because they have a ferry
to catch. I always wish that they would allow time to enjoy the
countryside as they pass through it.
Drivers leaving town will see several roads signposted to Picton.
Whichever route you take you will probably find yourself on the motorway
which crosses the Waimakariri River and bypasses the small town of
Kaiapoi.
Kaiapoi
However, if you have ample time you might choose to turn into the old main
road north instead of taking the motorway and stop off in Kaiapoi.
Europeans first settled in Kaiapoi in 1855 as it was a terminal for the
ferry across the Waimakariri River which was used until the railway reached
the area in 1872. It became well-known for the high quality woollen goods
which were produced in the Kaiapoi Woollen Mills - now closed.
Tuahiwi, 9km (5.5 miles) north of the town is the site of the Maori pa,
Kaiapohia, where the Ngai Tahu occupants were attacked and massacred by the
Ngati Toa warriors led by the famous chief
Te Rauparaha in 1830.
A memorial marks the site of the pa.
The motorway crosses the Waimakariri River and joins the old main road
north of Kaiapoi. There is easy driving to Woodend, a pleasant town from
which many people commute to work in Christchurch. The route takes you
across the Ashley River and Saltwater Creek, mainly worth mentioning for
its role in the early development of north Canterbury. It is difficult now
to envisage that it was a small busy port until 1868. Three shipwrecks
occurred there in the 1860s.
Signposts to the right indicate a number of beaches - The Pines, Kairaki,
Woodend, Waikuku and Leithfield - which offer camping sites and safe
bathing. Beaches on the east coast are usually most inviting for swimmers
in the summer mornings before the easterly wind cools the temperatures.
Amberley
The next township on the road is Amberley and after driving 48km (30 miles)
from Christchurch we often stop for a break and have a cup of coffee at the
Norwester Cafe or eat a picnic at Chamberlain Park with its historic
cottage on the left side of the main road. On one occasion when we were
travelling in the early morning we had breakfast in the Amberley Domain.
Visitors are often attracted to Amberley for the annual country show in
early November, for the fishing in the area or to play golf on the
beautiful Amberley golf course. Fine views of the coast are an added bonus
for the golfer.
Statue of Captain Charles Upham VC 1908-1994
As you come to the north end of the town watch for the Hurunui District
Council Office and in front of the building stop to view the statue of
Captain Charles Upham - New Zealand's most decorated soldier, who was
awarded the Victoria Cross and Bar for outstanding bravery in Crete in 1941
and at Minqar Qaim in North Africa in 1942. After the war he lived on a
farm at Conway Flat in North Canterbury with his wife and daughters. The
sculpture is the work of Mark Whyte, a Christchurch sculptor, and was
placed there to honour Upham in 1997.
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Statue of Captain Charles Upham VC
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Waipara - the wine producing area
The village of Waipara is in the centre of one of the fastest growing
wine-producing areas in New Zealand. As you drive through you will have a
choice of wineries at which to sample and purchase Canterbury wines.
The turnoff to State Highway 7 through the Lewis Pass is on the left at
the main intersection at Waipara just beyond the Waipara River bridge.
Weka Pass Railway
Waipara's Glenmark station is the starting point for the historic Weka Pass
Railway which runs 13km (8 miles) to Waikari. The train climbs almost 700
ft (213 metres) on its way through the Weka Pass. Trains run every Sunday
in January and February and on the first and third Sundays in the other
months and on most public holidays. The train is hauled by the restored
steam locomotive except in very dry times when a historic diesel locomotive
is used instead to reduce the fire risk in the farmland through the pass.
Travellers ride in original 1930s carriages and often picnic at the Waikari
end of the line.
Trains leave Waipara at 11.30 am and 2.30 pm and the return trip takes two
hours.
Glenmark church
A short distance from Waipara you may be surprised to see on a hill on the
left an imposing brick church - unusually large for a country church. It
was built by Annie Townend
to honour her father, George Henry Moore, the largest land owner in the
area. He allowed his 92,000 sheep to be so thick with scab that he had
heavy fines to pay, but he did nothing to improve his flock and became
known as Scabby Moore. In the Doomsday book of 1885 he was named as New
Zealand's wealthiest settler. Building his luxurious mansion took seven
years, but it was destroyed by fire two years after it was finished. When
he died in 1905 his daughter inherited a huge fortune. She had the church
built in her father's memory.
Domett
Some 50km (31 miles) of easy driving through undulating country takes you
to the Hurunui River bridge and on to Domett where you may like to stop at the Mainline Station Cafe
- a restoration of a genuine country railway station.
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Mainline Station Cafe
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One scenic route to Gore Bay begins on the right near the cafe, and a loop
road can be followed to Cheviot.
Cheviot
Cheviot, like Glenmark, is associated with a huge sheep run, the Cheviot
Estate, which was owned by a farmer known as Ready Money Robinson. This
name became attached to him after he paid £10,000 for his land using
wheelbarrows of hard cash. After his death the property was bought in 1892
by the government and divided into units for small farmers. Eighty people
lived on the large run, but when the land was subdivided 650 people lived
on it.
Like Scabby Moore Robinson built a mansion, but in 1936 it too was
destroyed by fire.. The site of this house and his garden's magnificent
trees are now the Cheviot Hills Reserve - a pleasant place to take a break
from travelling. It is on your right as you enter the town.
Near Leamington to the west of Cheviot you can see part of a particularly
strong fence which Robinson built to protect his sheep from being infected
with scab from the sheep of his neighbour, Scabby Moore.
Gore Bay
On the main road through the town you will see on the right another
signpost directing you to Gore Bay, a scenic reserve on the coast, 7 km
(4.5 miles) from Cheviot.
The southern end of the beach is safe for swimmers and surfers.
The most popular part of the reserve is what is known as the "Cathedrals"
area where the siltstone cliffs have been eroded into columns like organ
pipes.
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The Cathedral Cliffs
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There is a loop track through the area which is very popular in the summer
months, but not recommended in the winter or after heavy rain when part of
the track may be impassable. The vegetation is varied and the birdlife is
abundant - native pigeon, fantail, silvereye, kingfisher, grey warbler to
name just a few.
The road up the hill at the southern end of the beach takes you to a
parking area from which the Cathedral Cliffs may be viewed.
St Anne's Lagoon
A short distance (5km) beyond Cheviot note on your left St Anne's Lagoon, a
wildlife reserve and picnic area. In pleasant weather this is a beautiful
and restful place for a break in your journey - either to sit in the sun on
the extensive grassy areas or enjoy the shade of the trees, and watch the
birds on and around the lagoon - ducks, swans, crested grebes (if you are
lucky) and other native and introduced birds.
Over the Hundalees to the Kaikoura coast
Easy travelling takes you across the Waiau River and the Leader River.
(Note a turnoff to Hanmer Springs on your left.) The road crosses the
Conway River and enters hilly country, winding up and down through the
Hundalee Hills to a height of 170 metres (560 ft) with views of wooded
hills and glimpses of sharp peaks. It then descends steeply down to Oaro on
the coast.
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A view from the Kaikoura Coast road looking south
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The road skirts Goose Bay
beside the railway line passing through two road tunnels on the way.
Travelling along the Kaikoura Coast offers wonderful seascapes.
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A view south from the lookout on the Omihi Scenic Reserve Walkway
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The Omihi Scenic Reserve Walkway near Goose Bay takes you through native
bush to a lookout point which offers outstanding views to the north, east
and south.
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Kaikoura township looking north
Photo source Joe Levy
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The road leaves the coast and runs across flat land past a turnoff to
Hanmer Springs near the Kowhai River bridge to rise up a hill and take you
down to the town of Kaikoura.
Turn right at the top of the hill if you want to go to the wharf, Fyffe
House and the seal colony. You can rejoin State Highway 1 by driving
through the shopping area. There is a good range of eating places in the
town and on State Highway 1.
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