We moved to the West Coast in 1922 when I was only eight. The farm was
some three miles distant from the Punakaiki River and to reach it we had to
cross both that river and the Pororari. Both rivers had swing bridges
built across them and these were very narrow and took pedestrian traffic
only. Getting supplies to the farm depended on the rivers not being in
flood. Life for my parents must have been very exhausting and difficult.
Few conveniences in the house
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The O'Callaghan family in front of the house where they lived for five years
Photo source Leslie Walker (nee O'Callaghan)
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The farm house now derelict
Photo source Leslie Walker (nee O'Callaghan)
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Living conditions on the West Coast, when we moved there, were very
primitive. As a child I accepted the way of life.
We had a small tank to catch the rain water from the roof, but we never
used this for drinking purposes, and anyway it lasted only a few days
unless rain fell at regular intervals. A hundred yards into the bush ran a
small stream, and from this we filled buckets and four gallon kerosene tins
in which we carried the water up to the house. This was a regular chore,
and the water was of excellent quality and used for all purposes, whether
for cooking, drinking, or bodily cleanliness. A copper outside the back
door was used, not only to wash soiled clothing, but also to heat up water
if this was needed in any great quantity. Fuel used in the copper was
almost entirely wood, of which there was no lack, but which had to be
gathered from the bush and cut into lengths. We used dry supplejacks for
kindling.
Cooking was done on an old iron stove also fuelled by wood and sometimes
coal. Water was boiled in kettles, saucepans and other containers on the
top of the stove, and baking done in the oven. From that oven we enjoyed
many a delicious meal, as my mother was an excellent cook. The cakes that
came out of that oven were second to none, and we also baked our own bread.
Our weekly bath was taken in an oval baby bath which was just large enough
to sit in with knees tucked up. The water was heated either on the stove
or in the copper. It was largely a matter of standing up and sponging
ourselves, always hurriedly, as others were awaiting their turn and there
always seemed to be a shortage of hot water. Why this should have been I
don't know, unless the water took a long time to heat, or there was a
reluctance to burn too much fuel, which, while not in short supply, took
valuable time to collect from the bush.
In the living room was a huge fireplace and we seemed to be constantly
pulling chairs forward or moving them back, depending upon just how
fiercely the fire was burning. Toast made over the coals still seems to me
to have been much more appetising than that prepared in the "pop-up"
electrical toasters in modern use.
The children's responsibilities with the milking
The life was very strenuous for children of our age. As we grew older we
were expected to give a hand with the milking in the morning. Then after
having walked the two miles barefooted to and from school, a total of four
miles, we had to set to and help again in the evening.
On the top side of the road, about a couple of hundred yards from the
house, there was a huge overhanging rock with a large area of space
underneath. I suppose it could almost have been called a cave, and in this
area we had space for our cowbails and our separator. Outside this we had
built a yard to contain the cows awaiting their turn to be milked. In wet
weather the yard became a bog, and often we children were knee deep high in
mud. It mattered not, as we were always barefooted anyway and it wasn't
much trouble washing legs later. My father wore gumboots, as did my mother
when she came up to the yard to give assistance with the separating and
other such chores. She never learned how to milk, probably because she had
no desire to do so.
Many years later, when visiting the district, I had much difficulty in
finding the location of the overhanging rock and cowyard. The rock seemed
to have shrunk and the space beneath largely filled in. It is possible
that the formation of the road had something to do with the changed
topography, or that a large earthquake a few years later after our
departure caused some change.
Leslie and I soon learned to milk, and either one or both of us milked four
or five cows night and morning. As Eileen grew older, she also was
initiated into the mysteries of the cowyard, but her memories seem mostly
to be limited to squirting milk directly into a waiting cat's mouth, and to
a cow's dirty tail making unpleasant contact with her face! She swears
however, that she really did learn to milk!
After separating, the cream was carried in buckets back to the house and
poured into large cans which were collected periodically and transported
over the two rivers for "Boss" Mathias to take to the factory. We drank
some of the skim milk, but most of it went to feed the pigs.
During winter months we milked only one or two cows and so dispensed with
the use of the separator. During these months the milk was poured into
large pans, and, when the cream came to the surface, it was skimmed off.
We made our own butter, and I spent many an hour turning the handle of an
old wooden churn. Sometimes the cream turned into the butter quite
quickly, but more often than not, it seemed to take many frustrating hours
of tiring work before success was achieved.
Getting to and from school
We had to travel a distance of some two miles to the Punakaiki School for
our education.
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The three children snapped by a touring photographer on the way to school
Photo source Leslie Walker (nee O'Callaghan)
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The children of the Punakaiki School
Photo source Leslie Walker (nee O'Callaghan)
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Usually we walked, always barefoot, and Eileen tied hankies
round her ankles as she used to knock them together.
Sometimes we were permitted to ride a horse, but we were not allowed to
saddle it. So the three of us climbed aboard with the child in front
taking the reins and clutching the mane of the horse for balance. The
remaining two children put their arms around the waist of the child in
front and off we would go. It was a bumpy ride, especially for the poor
unfortunate at the rear on the rump of the animal.
Punakaiki School
The school was situated immediately north of the present tearooms which
were built many years later. Opposite, across the road, was the track
leading to the blowholes, famous for their pancake rock formation. The
school catered for all classes up to standard six, so the teacher coped
with pupils of all ages. Over the years I was there the attendance ranged
from nine to nineteen.
Guiding tourists to the Punakaiki Blowholes
In the mid-twenties the Punakaiki blowholes did not attract visitors in
today's numbers, no doubt because of the isolation of the area, lack of
transport, and little knowledge of the attraction in other parts of the
country. However, there were occasions when small parties did arrive,
often during the school lunch hour. Most of these visitors had no idea how
to reach the blowholes, as there was then only an unmarked bush track
leading to them. As we knew the area well, we often guided them along the
track through the bush. Almost invariably we were rewarded with a small
coin for our services, and although we were often late back to school, we
always thought the recompense was well worth any reprimand we might receive
from the teacher. In our opinion those blowholes were somewhat dangerous,
not so much the blowholes themselves, but the surrounding area. We always
took the utmost care, as it would have been very easy to slip from the
rocks and fall into the hole itself. Survival would not have been at all
likely in that event. Of course, since then, much has been done to improve
the safety of the surround with the building of protective fences and the
erection of warning notices.
Click here to read more of Dick O'Callaghan's story.