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The Hollyford Walk
- the trip of a lifetime
Lesley Moore - 16/6/00
I have recently returned from the trip of a lifetime - a walk down the
Hollyford Valley to the sea at Martins Bay. I had already experienced the
other major tracks in the area - Milford, Routeburn, and Kepler - but the
Hollyford presented a major obstacle in the form of the Demon Trail, a ten
to twelve hour scramble round the side of Lake McKerrow. So when I read
about the guided option which included a jet boat ride across the lake I
was keen.
Four of us met the other ten in the party at Te Anau's Luxmore Hotel for a
pre-tour briefing and then dinner together. All fourteen in our party were
New Zealanders, which is unusual. The average ratio is 60% overseas
visitors to 40% New Zealanders. Our guides were friendly and
knowledgeable, and soon put us at our ease. After a relaxing meal we
enjoyed a comfortable night in the luxurious Luxmore Hotel.
First day
After an early breakfast we were on our way by 7.30 am in the bus provided.
The drive alongside
Lake Te Anau
and through the beautiful Eglington Valley
was full of interest. Our first major stop was at Gunns Camp set up by the
almost legendary Davy Gunn, known as the 'friend of trampers', and now run
by his son Murray. We visited the museum and shop, but the highlight was
having morning tea with Murray and seeing his extensive collection of New
Zealand books.
A kilometre or two from Gunns Camp the road ends, and it was time to don
light packs and set off into the bush. Two hours' easy walking through
predominantly silver beech forest brought us to Sunshine hut, our lunch
spot. A welcome cool drink was waiting, and the tea and coffee were
brewing. The afternoon's adventure began with a short detour to view
Hidden Falls.
Then it was back into the bush, which was gradually changing to red beech
and podocarp forest. After a while we began a gentle ascent of the Little
Homer Saddle, the only climb in the whole walk. As it is only 141 metres
(463 feet) at the summit, you hardly notice you are climbing, This section
of the track was very beautiful, a natural garden, featuring many varieties
of moss and fern.
By 6 p.m. we had all arrived at Pyke River Lodge to a warm welcome from
Dagmar, our hostess, and the ultimate in luxury - a hot shower. Pyke Lodge
is situated so that its large picture windows look straight up at Mt
Madeleine. Unfortunately for us it was cloudy and all we had were
tantalising glimpses. Dagmar provided us with a tasty three course meal
and then it was outside to view glow-worms and feed the tame eels. The
lodge was well stocked with may excellent books on the flora, fauna and
history of the area. We slept in twin bedded rooms, with sheets and duvets
provided, and the bathrooms were stocked with soap, towels, hair shampoo
and dryers.
Second day
We made a brief detour to visit Lake Alabaster and cross the Pyke river by
the longest swing bridge in Fiordland - nearly 100 metres (330 feet).
Boarding the jet boat we sped up the Hollyford River and across Lake
McKerrow, accomplishing in less than an hour what it would take twelve to
fifteen hours to do on foot!
You can see more about Bill Moore and his paintings here
We beached the boat on the lake shore to visit the historic site of
Jamestown, settled in the 1870s by some intrepid pioneers, but abandoned
soon afterwards. All that remains now are three gnarled and mossy apple
trees, long past bearing fruit, and a memorial stone. Leaving the shores
of Lake McKerrow we walked through ancient podocarp forest, 800 to 1000
years old, arriving at Martins Bay Lodge for lunch.
By afternoon the cloud had lifted and it was brilliantly sunny; perfect
conditions for a walk round the northern coastline of Martins Bay to Long
Reef. Here we visited a colony of New Zealand fur seals and their two to
three month old pups - a great photo opportunity.
Between August and December the rare Fiordland Crested Penguins come ashore
here to mate and lay their eggs. We returned to the lodge in the jet boat
on the way spotting a white heron fishing in the reeds. The area is a
veritable paradise for bird life. We glimpsed kaka in flight, as well as
seeing many tuis, bellbirds, wood pigeons, tomtits and fantails.
Third day
This day spent exploring Martins Bay was very relaxing. The jet boat
whisked us across the lagoon to the beach, and we made our way through six
to eight metre (twenty to twenty six feet) high dunelands to the wetlands
and lowland forest behind the sandhills. There is a tremendous sense of
remoteness and isolation here, but there are still some reminders of the
pioneers who tried to tame the wilderness. For many years the McKerrow
family farmed at Martins Bay, building a substantial homestead. Now all
that remain are a broken down chimney and some of the exotic trees that
they planted.
At the southern end of the beach we gathered wood and made a bonfire. We
were hoping to gather mussels off the rocks and barbecue them, but the sea
was too rough. The return journey along the seven kilometre (4.4 mile)
stretch of beach was beside the sea, and some of us enjoyed walking
barefoot on the sand. Our jet boat was waiting to take us across the river
to the lodge, and the timing was perfect as it began to pour and rained
steadily all night.
Fourth day
We were in the jet boat early on our return across Lake McKerrow. Because
the Hollyford River was in flood we were taken further upstream than is
usual. The walk back over the Little Homer Saddle and through the forest
presented different vistas from the first's day's walk. At the road end
our bus was waiting to take us back to Te Anau and the end of a memorable
experience.
Options available on the guided walk
We chose the four day walk-out tour, but there are other options. There is
a three day fly-out tour which includes a scenic flight and Milford Sound
cruise, or a four day fly-out tour which allows for an extra day and night
at Martins Bay.
Fitness and equipment
Because the Hollyford is a low altitude walk it is suitable for anyone of
reasonable fitness. To enjoy the experience you need to be able to walk
for five to six hours a day comfortably. You must have well broken in
boots and light but warm clothing, Light-weight packs are provided, as are
hooded waterproof parkas and gaiters.
The highlights
For me the highlight of the trip was being able to experience such an
inaccessible area in relative comfort. Other highlights included the times
of good fellowship over a gourmet meal a the end of the day, and learning a
little of the flora, fauna, history and geology of this World Heritage
area.
To see more of Bill Moore's photos of this beautiful area go to the
Photo
Supplement
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