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Getting To Know The North Island
Of New Zealand - Part Two
Lake Taupo To Hawke's Bay
On The East Coast
Written and Photographed by Kate Methven - 3/3/00
The road to Wellington...
Stage Two - Lake Taupo to Hawke's Bay
- distance 143km (89 miles)
If you haven't already done so, you may wish to read Part One of this series.
Getting there
Just a few kilometres south of Taupo City take Route 5 - the Thermal
Explorer Highway heading east to the East
Coast and the twin cities of Napier and Hastings which are only twenty
minutes apart. The travelling time from Taupo is
around one and a half hours - 143km (89 miles) - first passing through
pine forests and then undulating countryside.
If you feel like stretching your legs half way, why not stop off at
Waipunga Falls - well signposted on your left hand side and a
popular scenic stop off spot for travellers.
Much to attract visitors
It's aptly called "The Fruitbowl of New Zealand", and orchards and
vineyards abound in this region. Add the
most concentrated collections of Art Deco and Spanish Mission
architecture in the Southern Hemisphere and there is
plenty to attract visitors here.
It is arguably one of New Zealand's
warmest regions with summer temperatures
(November to April) ranging from 20 to 35ºC
and mild
winters (June to September) averaging 15ºC. On
top of that you will find sparkling views over the Pacific Ocean, fresh
produce served at wineries, restaurants and
cafes and an abundance of outdoor adventures - so why are you
waiting?
Local history
Napier
When the traders, whalers and missionaries began moving into the area in
the early 1800’s there were many Maori
people already settled there. In the 1850s farmers and hotel keepers
arrived and shortly afterwards the locals named
the settlement as Napier after Sir Charles Napier, the hero of the
battle of Meeanee in the Indian province of Scinde.
Many streets still carry names associated with the colonial era of the
British Indian Empire, Others take their names
from famous artists and literary people.
Earthquake kills 258
In the early days Napier consisted of an oblong mass of hills (Scinde
Island) almost entirely surrounded by water.
However in February 1931 a two and a half minute earthquake struck,
almost totally levelling buildings and raising
some areas as much as 2.5 metres (8 feet). More than 4,000 hectares
of
seabed became dry land and today this has been
developed into residential and industrial property.
Hastings
The site occupied by Hastings City was first settled in 1864 and
achieved city status in 1956. The city has fine
examples of Spanish architecture, particularly the Hastings Memorial
Theatre which was built in 1915 and has since
been renovated to become one of the finest performance theatres in the
Southern Hemisphere.
If you have time take a drive up Te Mata Peak where you will get great
views across the Ruahine, Maungaharuru and Keweka ranges with the
volcano
Ruapehu in the distance.
Local Maori Legend
According to Maori legend the hillscape is a sleeping giant with the
hill being the body of a Maori chief, Te Mata O
Rongokako, who wished to make war against the local tribe Heretaunga.
The Heretaunga chief's daughter was very
beautiful and when he saw her Rongokao decided to woo her rather than
make war. She set him many tasks which
he accomplished until she told him to eat his way through the hill.
The giant began but soon choked on a large rock and dropped to the
ground where he still lies today!
Hawke's Bay - The Wine Country
In 1851 French Catholic missionaries established New Zealand's oldest
winery, Mission Estate. Since that time over
thirty wineries have been established in the area, many of whom have won
national and international acclaim. What is
interesting is that Hawke's Bay produces exceptional wine across a broad
range of styles from early ripening
varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir to the later
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This is a
region that produces many of the best wines in the country.
Treading the Wine Trail is a delightful way to spend a day. You can
drive yourself or join one of the local wine
tours. Many vineyards, including Mission Estate, have restaurants and
wine tasting. This is a great way to enjoy the countryside whilst
tasting
the local products. I definitely recommend it.
If you visit the area in February this is the month of the Harvest
Hawke's Bay Festival’ - New Zealand's premier
wine event with wine, food, fun and education topped off with the
Vintners Charity Wine Auction. Maybe you'll get
a bargain or two!!
Art Deco
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Napier's main shopping area
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Napier is world famous for unique architecture which all grew out of the
ruins of the earthquake in 1931. Over the next two years the city was
rebuilt in the styles currently fashionable - Spanish Mission, Stripped
Classical and above all Art Deco, the major style of the early 20th
century.
Nearby Hastings City, also damaged in the earthquake, has its own unique
concentration of Spanish Mission and Art Deco buildings.
The local Information Centres have leaflets on self-guided walks around
the areas or you can join a guided walk if you prefer.
Gannet Seabird Colony
For me the visit to Cape Kidnappers to see the gannet colony was the
most memorable highlight of my trip. This is one of the largest
accessible mainland gannet colonies in the world, not only for the fit who prefer
to walk out over the rocks but also for the unfit (like me) who were driven
there by tractor with trailer, which took about an hour - definitely
much
quicker than walking!
The area is administered by the Department of Conservation and provides
a special opportunity to see the
gannet (takapu) in its natural environment really close up. The adult
Australasian gannets have a wing span of up to
two metres and are designed for graceful flying and diving from great
heights into the sea to catch fish.
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Isn't he beautiful? The gannet poses for a snapshot at Cape Kidnappers
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The birds are migratory and the first trip for the new chicks is to
Australia where they stay for two to three years before
returning to New Zealand to live.
When to visit
The season at Cape Kidnappers runs between October and late April.
The best time for viewing the gannets is between early November and late
February. Usually the first chicks will hatch in the first week of
November and the last chicks depart the colony during May for
their migration to Australia.
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Gannets nesting at Cape Kidnappers
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Local attractions
Feel like swimming with the dolphins? Then head for Marineland on
Napier's Marine Parade where you can also
see otters, sea lions and penguins going through their paces. You can
even dive with sharks at the Aquarium if you are a qualified diver.
And how about watching the hang gliders leap
399 metres (1309 feet) above sea level from Te Mata Peak
- or try it for yourself if you dare!!
Garden visits, art and craft trails, horse treks, gliding or ballooning,
river activities, cycling and walking - you name it
the Hawke's Bay area has it all.
Two things I really enjoyed
Visiting the Pernel Fruitworld in Pakowhai Road, Hastings where you
can
taste the variety of local fruits, have a
coffee in the cafe and take a look in their museum of old implements.
A visit to the sheep tanning factory, Classic Sheepskins, in
Thames
St, Napier, where you can see what is involved in
the sheep tanning and manufacturing process. They have a good range
of products for sale, all at factory prices.
Accommodation
Accommodation is plentiful whether you try hotels, motels, bed and
breakfast or for something a little different a farmstay. There are
a
number to choose from, not too far out of
Napier or Hastings. Certainly that is my choice to
experience the real flavour of the area.
The local Information Centres offer a free service and will make
bookings
for you. Contact them on :
Napier info@napiervic.co.nz
Hastings vic@hastingstourism.co.nz
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