The Hollyford Walk – The Trip Of A Lifetime

I have recently returned from the trip of a lifetime – a walk down the Hollyford Valley to the sea at Martins Bay. I had already experienced the other major tracks in the area – Milford, Routeburn, and Kepler – but the Hollyford presented a major obstacle in the form of the Demon Trail, a ten to twelve hour scramble round the side of Lake McKerrow. So when I read about the guided option which included a jet boat ride across the lake I was keen.

Four of us met the other ten in the party at Te Anau’s Luxmore Hotel for a pre-tour briefing and then dinner together. All fourteen in our party were New Zealanders, which is unusual. The average ratio is 60% overseas visitors to 40% New Zealanders. Our guides were friendly and knowledgeable, and soon put us at our ease. After a relaxing meal we enjoyed a comfortable night in the luxurious Luxmore Hotel.

First day After an early breakfast we were on our way by 7.30 am in the bus provided. The drive alongside
Lake Te Anau and through the beautiful Eglington Valley
was full of interest. Our first major stop was at Gunns Camp set up by the almost legendary Davy Gunn, known as the ‘friend of trampers’, and now run by his son Murray. We visited the museum and shop, but the highlight was having morning tea with Murray and seeing his extensive collection of New Zealand books.

A kilometre or two from Gunns Camp the road ends, and it was time to don light packs and set off into the bush. Two hours’ easy walking through predominantly silver beech forest brought us to Sunshine hut, our lunch spot. A welcome cool drink was waiting, and the tea and coffee were brewing. The afternoon’s adventure began with a short detour to view Hidden Falls.

Hidden Falls Click here for a larger version Photo Source Bill Moore

Then it was back into the bush, which was gradually changing to red beech and podocarp forest. After a while we began a gentle ascent of the Little Homer Saddle, the only climb in the whole walk. As it is only 141 metres (463 feet) at the summit, you hardly notice you are climbing, This section of the track was very beautiful, a natural garden, featuring many varieties of moss and fern.

By 6 p.m. we had all arrived at Pyke River Lodge to a warm welcome from Dagmar, our hostess, and the ultimate in luxury – a hot shower. Pyke Lodge is situated so that its large picture windows look straight up at Mt Madeleine. Unfortunately for us it was cloudy and all we had were tantalising glimpses. Dagmar provided us with a tasty three course meal and then it was outside to view glow-worms and feed the tame eels. The lodge was well stocked with may excellent books on the flora, fauna and history of the area. We slept in twin bedded rooms, with sheets and duvets provided, and the bathrooms were stocked with soap, towels, hair shampoo and dryers.

Second day We made a brief detour to visit Lake Alabaster and cross the Pyke river by the longest swing bridge in Fiordland – nearly 100 metres (330 feet).

Swing Bridge Click here for a larger version Photo source Fiona Johns

Boarding the jet boat we sped up the Hollyford River and across Lake McKerrow, accomplishing in less than an hour what it would take twelve to fifteen hours to do on foot!

The Hollyford River and Mt Tutoko, the highest mountain in the area – painting by Bill Moore Click here for a larger version

You can see more about Bill Moore and his paintings here

Lake McKerrow Click here for a larger version Photo source Bill Moore

We beached the boat on the lake shore to visit the historic site of Jamestown, settled in the 1870s by some intrepid pioneers, but abandoned soon afterwards. All that remains now are three gnarled and mossy apple trees, long past bearing fruit, and a memorial stone. Leaving the shores of Lake McKerrow we walked through ancient podocarp forest, 800 to 1000 years old, arriving at Martins Bay Lodge for lunch.

By afternoon the cloud had lifted and it was brilliantly sunny; perfect conditions for a walk round the northern coastline of Martins Bay to Long Reef. Here we visited a colony of New Zealand fur seals and their two to three month old pups – a great photo opportunity.

Seals at Long Reef at the northern end of Martins Bay Click here for a larger version Photo source Bill Moore

Between August and December the rare Fiordland Crested Penguins come ashore here to mate and lay their eggs. We returned to the lodge in the jet boat on the way spotting a white heron fishing in the reeds. The area is a veritable paradise for bird life. We glimpsed kaka in flight, as well as seeing many tuis, bellbirds, wood pigeons, tomtits and fantails.

Third day This day spent exploring Martins Bay was very relaxing. The jet boat whisked us across the lagoon to the beach, and we made our way through six to eight metre (twenty to twenty six feet) high dunelands to the wetlands and lowland forest behind the sandhills. There is a tremendous sense of remoteness and isolation here, but there are still some reminders of the pioneers who tried to tame the wilderness. For many years the McKerrow family farmed at Martins Bay, building a substantial homestead. Now all that remain are a broken down chimney and some of the exotic trees that they planted.

At the southern end of the beach we gathered wood and made a bonfire. We were hoping to gather mussels off the rocks and barbecue them, but the sea was too rough. The return journey along the seven kilometre (4.4 mile) stretch of beach was beside the sea, and some of us enjoyed walking barefoot on the sand. Our jet boat was waiting to take us across the river to the lodge, and the timing was perfect as it began to pour and rained steadily all night.

Fourth day We were in the jet boat early on our return across Lake McKerrow. Because the Hollyford River was in flood we were taken further upstream than is usual. The walk back over the Little Homer Saddle and through the forest presented different vistas from the first’s day’s walk. At the road end our bus was waiting to take us back to Te Anau and the end of a memorable experience.

Options available on the guided walk We chose the four day walk-out tour, but there are other options. There is a three day fly-out tour which includes a scenic flight and Milford Sound cruise, or a four day fly-out tour which allows for an extra day and night at Martins Bay.

Fitness and equipment Because the Hollyford is a low altitude walk it is suitable for anyone of reasonable fitness. To enjoy the experience you need to be able to walk for five to six hours a day comfortably. You must have well broken in boots and light but warm clothing, Light-weight packs are provided, as are hooded waterproof parkas and gaiters.

The highlights For me the highlight of the trip was being able to experience such an inaccessible area in relative comfort. Other highlights included the times of good fellowship over a gourmet meal a the end of the day, and learning a little of the flora, fauna, history and geology of this World Heritage area.

To see more of Bill Moore’s photos of this beautiful area go to the Photo Supplement