Dorothy – 11/2/00
If you haven’t already done so, you may wish to read part one of this series.
Lake Pukaki to Cromwell – 148km (92 miles)
Twizel Eleven kilometres (7 miles) from Pukaki you will see the signs for the town
of Twizel. Originally built as a town for the workers on the hydro electric schemes it refused to die when the schemes were finished, and has
become a lively centre for visitors and the owners of the former staff houses, now either permanent or holiday homes.
It is very cold in winter and sometimes Twizel experiences hoar frost, and
the summer days can be very hot, but the climate is no deterrent for those
who holiday here for the magnificent views, for the peace, for skiing and
for fishing and water sports on the nearly hydro lake, Ruataniwha. The lake is ideal for water sports and the secondary schools rowing championships are frequently held here.
Twizel has a shopping mall with a pleasant selection of shops and services.
The Hunters Restaurant at the Mackenzie Country Inn serves good meals in a
welcoming atmosphere. There is a choice of motels and a motor camp, Ruataniwha Holiday Park, on the edge of Lake Ruataniwha.
Note the turn off to Lake Ohau, also popular with visitors for skiing, water sports, hunting and fishing.
Omarama At Omarama, 27km (17 miles) further on, the village provides good restaurants and accommodation and this place too attracts visitors looking
for good trout fishing, skiing and gliding. Omarama has been described as
the gliding capital of New Zealand.
Over the Lindis Pass to Cromwell The next leg of the journey – a long one of 110km (69 miles) – takes you
over the barren hills of the Lindis Pass and down into Tarras. Just beyond
Tarras at 80km (50 miles) note the turnoff to
Lake Wanaka, Lake Hawea and the Haast Pass.
Between Tarras and Cromwell the road runs beside Lake Dunstan – the hydro
lake providing storage for the Clyde Dam which has been built downstream of
Cromwell. The creation of Lake Dunstan meant the flooding of many orchards
and of the town centre of Cromwell which has now been rebuilt on higher ground.
Cromwell to Frankton – 53km (33 miles)
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| Roaring Meg Creek Click here for a larger version |
From Cromwell your drive through the Kawarau Gorge to Frankton is full of interest. You can stop at the picnic area near Roaring Meg Creek where there is an old powerhouse. This was a feared area in the early days
as the wagons struggling through the gorge on the muddy roads were often held up here and robbed. The steep drop to the creek was an easy place for
the disposal of the highwaymen’s victims.
Bungy Jumping At the end of the gorge is the old suspension bridge built in 1880. It is
now a historic landmark, closed to vehicles and put to a use that would have astonished its builders. It is the world’s first bungy jumping site.
You could try a jump or just join the onlookers!
You might like to take a jump or view the bungy jumping at the new Nevis site on the Nevis River, a tributary of the Kawarau River. This site at 134 metres above the river is the highest in New Zealand and provides an 8
second free fall. To gain access to jump or to view you must first book through the A. J. Hackett Bungy Centre in Queenstown. There is no public
access.
The road now follows the Kawarau River to Frankton passing the turnoff to
the Crown Range route to Wanaka and one of the roads to Arrowtown. Frankton is on the shore of Lake Wakatipu and there you turn right to travel along the shore of the lake and visit Queenstown, a tourists’ mecca,
or turn left to head on to Te Anau.
Frankton to Te Anau – 163 km (102 miles) From Frankton on the Frankton Arm of Lake Wakatipu you can look across the water to the aptly named mountains, The Remarkables.
First stop Kingston After a trip along the shore of Lake Wakatipu – 40km (25 miles) – you reach
Kingston, a small settlement at the southeastern end of the lake. The little settlement was bathed in sunshine when we visited and seemed a truly
peaceful haven. All that disturbed the tranquillity was the train whistle
inviting us on a trip into the past on the Kingston Flyer.
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| The Remarkables from Frankton Click here for a larger version |
The Kingston Flyer If you like riding on a vintage train check on the timetable and time your
arrival in Kingston for a trip from there to Fairllight on the Kingston Flyer.
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| The Kingston Flyer |
The return trips on the Kingston Flyer from Kingston to Fairlight and back,
28km (17 miles) run from 1 October to 30 April operating every day except
Christmas Day. The morning trips leave at 10.15 a.m. returning by 11.30 a.m., and the afternoon trips leave at 3.45 p.m. returning by 5.10 p.m.
The engines are two of the last of the Ab class coal-fired locomotives dating from 1925. The train has seven wooden vintage carriages dating from around 1900. The oldest is the Gallery or birdcage built in around 1900. It also has a fully restored refreshment car and can be chartered for special functions.
Kingston to Te Anau Your journey now takes you through pleasant Southland farming country to Five Rivers where you turn right to head to Mossburn and continue along the
road to Te Anau.
Lake Manapouri Towards the end of this stretch of the journey be sure to take the turnoff
to Lake Manapouri. It adds only 21km (13 miles) to your journey and you will be wonderfully rewarded for the extra travelling.
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| The first view across Lake Manapouri Click here for a larger version |
Conservationists waged a long and very active campaign from 1959 to 1972 to
prevent the raising of Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau as part of the hydro-electric development. We can thank their efforts for the beauty of
the lakes today. The Campaigners in the Save Manapouri Campaign are remembered in a memorial plaque on the shore of the lake.
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| Plaque on the shore of Lake Manapouri Click here for a larger version |
While you are there do take time to look at beautiful Pearl Harbour. There
is accommodation at Lake Manapouri and if time permits the a combined cruise and bus trip to view Doubtful Sound gives a view of the natural beauty and isolation of that area while a trip to the underground power station shows the engineering achievement of the hydro electric development
which operates without damaging the lakes by raising the levels.
To Te Anau
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| Looking across Lake Te Anau with a NZ native kowhai tree in bloom on the left and flowering NZ flax in the foreground |
A short trip takes you to Te Anau on the shore of Lake Te Anau. The settlement is at the edge of Fiordland National Park, one of the largest national parks in the world and a World Heritage area. To find out what the area offers start at the Fiordland Information Centre and find out about the different types of accommodation, the varied restaurants and the
many activities offered. You can choose among cruises, especially the famous trip to the Te Ana-au Glowworm Caves, scenic flights, water sports,
mountain biking, fly-fishing or trolling for trout, short walks, and longer
walks like the circular three or four day Kepler Track which begins and ends at Te Anau.
If you are planning overnight tramps you are wise to book ahead to be sure
of space in the huts. You are certainly recommended to book for the Milford Track whether you take the guided walk or go as a freedom walker.
Tents are not recommended as shelter from Fiordland rain!
The Gateway to Milford Te Anau is beautiful itself but is probably best known as The Gateway to Milford Sound.
Next week
Te Anau to Milford by the Milford Track or by road
